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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.